02. 11. 2012.

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Remains of the day

I can barely sleep knowing there is a cold roast chicken in the fridge. Those who turn up their noses at cold cuts don't know what they are missing. So wound up do I get about the promise of leftovers that I deliberately roast a larger bird knowing that there will be plenty left for later. Sometimes it crosses my mind to roast two, one for hot and a second one for cold, though I have yet to actually do it.

The pleasures of a cold roast are not purely gastronomic. A good cook gets a buzz from the economy of using $1k iconic nib celine bam bam sandals nude 37 us 7 every scrap of something. I don't mean in a tightwad sort of way, but more out of respect. Chewing the flesh off a drumstick that has gone tough in the fridge overnight; digging out the oyster-shaped lumps of brown meat that hide underneath the carcass; making a sherry-coloured stock from the roasted bones. This is not simply old-fashioned frugal housekeeping – it just happens to be a way to get the best out of what you have.

Chicken is the main meat on my kitchen at the moment. Slices from a cold roast bird, judiciously salted and aside a blob of mayo, some curves of lettuce and some slices of $27k celine emerald green crocodile mini belt bag w top handle & shoulder strap cucumber can be the best of all summer meals. It goes without saying that much will depend on how juicy the roast still is, how crisp the lettuce and cucumber, and whether it is really good mayonnaise. Cold meat is the stuff of dreams to me, especially if there are pickles around – tiny gherkins, some flakes of salt and maybe some oniony chutney bright with spices and sharp vinegar. Sometimes, the salad itself can be even better than the hot roast.

In winter there will be parsnips and Jerusalem artichokes round my Sunday joint, but at this time of year there is more likely to be young leeks and fennel and maybe some chunky cloves of new garlic, the sort with the mauve-striped skin. I am not averse to roasting a new potato, too, especially when they go all soft and fudgy.

My take on cooking a roast that will be as good served cold the next day is to season it in such a way that it will work for both. For instance, lemon and tarragon can be used to season the hot roast and can then also be included somehow in the salad. Fennel is good here, too, being a gentle and summery flavouring but also a smart ingredient to add to the accompanying salad. A fat roast chicken is somehow even more tempting when it is drizzled with olive oil, black pepper and orange juice, then served later with a watercress and orange salad.

Some marriages work well hot but not so well cold. My favourite way of cooking a chicken with handfuls of garlic makes the most sumptuous hot dinner, but is actually rather nasty the day after. As is chicken which has been cooked with cumin, coriander and ginger. It works one way but not t'other. This is something to consider seriously when you know that bird is going to be tomorrow's supper, too.

If we are to eat well, then we need to respect certain traditions, particularly in terms of what goes with what. I cannot emphasise this enough. That doesn't mean we should be a slave to them. I recently roasted a chicken in typical summer mode with fennel, baby leeks and lemon – $4350 authenic new celine medium box bag in camel brown leather gold hardware the next day that chicken imbued with those flavours did very well in a couscous salad with asparagus, fennel, basil, mint and more lemon. I threw in some spiky rocket for a bit of textural interest. The flavours all worked together splendidly, as well hot as cold.

That cold chicken could have just as easily turned up in a very English salad with cucumber, lettuce and radishes – so memorable when done well, so tiresome if done in a slovenly way – or in thin slices next to a new potato and fennel salad, the mayonnaise bright with lemon juice. The point is that the leftovers for tomorrow are more than just something to pick at every time you open the fridge door, but have been given the respect I insist they deserve.

Roast chicken with fennel and lemon

Serves 2 with leftovers for the next recipe or 4 without.

1 large free-range chicken 2 large bulbs of fennel 4 small spring leeks 1 lemon 6 cloves of new season's ‘green’ garlic 24 new potatoes 0 celine a scene 75 facebook olive oil fennel seeds bay leaves 1 glass of white wine

Get the oven hot – set it at 200 C/gas mark 6. Halve, then thinly slice the fennel bulbs into thick wedges, then put them in a colander. Slice the leeks into short cork-sized chunks and add them to the fennel, then rinse both under cold running water.

Cut the lemon into six wedges and toss with the fennel. Peel the garlic, but leave the cloves whole. Scrub the new potatoes thoroughly, then tumble everything into a roasting tin or baking dish.

Rinse the chicken and pat it dry. Rub it all over with olive oil, salt and black pepper, then sit it on top of the vegetables. Scatter over a few pinches of fennel seed, drizzle the chicken and vegetables with olive oil and roast for an hour or so until the flesh is tender and the skin golden. Test for doneness by inserting a skewer in between the leg and the breast – the juices from it should run clear with no sign of blood.

Remove the dish from the oven and lift the bird on to a carving board. Toss the vegetables around, drizzling over a little more oil if you think they need it, and giving another few grinds of the salt and pepper mills. Turn the oven up as high as it will go and 0 celine bag 30 cm ruler return the vegetables to the oven, leaving the chicken to rest a while. Watch them closely at this point – they scorch easily. They should be tender and golden brown after 10-15 minutes.

Lift the vegetables from the dish and put them on to warm plates. If you can leave some of the garlic cloves behind in $950 new celine us 9 the dish, then all the better – they will help season the juices. Put the dish over a medium heat and pour in the wine, bringing it to the boil and stirring and scraping as it simmers. After a minute or two check the seasoning – it will need salt and pepper – and pour over the meat as you carve.

Chicken salad with asparagus, lemon, mint and couscous

How I serve this salad depends on the weather and who else I am cooking for. On a truly hot day, I eat it as it appears below – a light yet perfectly satisfying dish, a mildly flavoured tumble of greens and grain. If the weather is cooler I take out a jar of harrissa sauce (a Moroccan chilli sauce available from most supermarkets and good delis) and mix it with a little water. Just enough for it to dribble from a spoon. Then I serve the salad on plates and pour a little of the harrissa over, forking it in as I eat – a hotter and punchier style salad altogether. The choice is yours. I'd keep a jar of harrissa in the fridge, though, just in case. Serves 2 as a main-course salad.

250g asparagus 250g couscous 300g cold roast chicken 1 small bulb of fennel a large handful of basil leaves olive oil a small handful mint leaves the juice of 1 lemon 1 bunch of rocket $1350 meteora celine ankle boots shoes black leather runway us 38 us 8 leaves extra-virgin olive oil

Bring a pan of water to the boil and salt it ready for cooking the asparagus. Trim off any tough ends, then cut the asparagus into short lengths and drop into the boiling water. Leave to cook until the stems are tender and a slightly dull green. They should have a bit of bite to them celine replica phantom bag, so keep tasting till they are done to your liking. They shouldn't take more than 10 minutes or so. Drain them and put them into a mixing bowl.

Put the couscous in a basin and pour over enough boiling water to moisten it. Once the water has soaked in (a matter of minutes), put the couscous in a steamer – or in a colander lined with a clean J-cloth balanced over a pan of $1950 nwt celine resort 2013 orange cream foulard blouse boiling water – and steam for 10-15 minutes until done. Fluff it up with a fork.

Remove the chicken from the bone, and tear it into long strips and juicy $900 new celine coin gold choker costume jewlery necklace medium chunks. You don't want it to be too small. Add it to the asparagus in the bowl. Finely dice the fennel or $2700 authentic celine trapeze tricolor small black green cream luggage tote bag cut it into wafer-thin slices. Tear up the basil leaves and drop them in, too, then remove the mint leaves from their stems and roughly chop them. Squeeze in the lemon juice.

Rinse the rocket leaves and toss them gently with the couscous. Check the seasoning. Pile on to plates and drizzle with olive oil.


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